Monday, November 11, 2013

Break the chain gang



     Bitter war is coming!  In fact, it’s already here.  The battle over the culinary legacy of our town spills into the streets nightly.  Most of you are embroiled in it and have no idea how central you are to its victors being decided.  Big chains and purveyors of hollow junk food have incited battle with artisans, moms and pops.  It’s a war that small business owners offering you something unique, fresh and good appear to currently be on the losing side of. 
     Make no mistake, in a city where the choice of sustenance is quickly becoming very dense, the decisions you make will shape the very future of Columbus and on larger scale the world.  This likely seems a dramatic conclusion to draw, but the responsibility does in fact lie with all of us.
     Many words have been written directly linking food, music and art to the growth and cultural richness of urban and suburban populations.  It takes little more than the quickest glance at a few other cities to see a correlation between the food and art scenes and how desirable these places are as hubs of industry and tourism.  Do we want to be Chicago or Seattle?  I think that the answer is no.  We can cast our own lot, go our own way drawing from our seat deep in the heart of a state rich in agricultural potential and plenty or choose to embrace large chains who search for the very cheapest faceless producers and purveyors to manage cost to the detriment of the citizenry.
     Now, I’m not accusing the other side of being evil.  Many of them started off small companies, struggling to make food costs and payroll just like most of us.  They’ve grown and succeeded at a very high level.  They’ve made a pretty decent profit in our city and have every right to do so.  It’s easy to take potshots at them, but this text isn’t about defaming them.  It’s a matter of how we choose to define ourselves as a city.
     When we look at it from even further aloft, so many small businesses support each other in buying local and doing their very best to operate sustainably, that it puts the prosperity and health of the city starkly in the balance.  We can all choose to make it reasonable for small farms to produce products sustainably for consumption in Ohio by choosing to support restaurants and markets that favor these choices.  We can choose to increase tax revenue and living wage jobs by empowering our friends and neighbors to make more jobs. 
     A happy side effect could be more outstanding products made literally FOR YOU.  We want to be progressive and show off to a food literate populous so that people want to visit or move here to a place that we love.  We local Chefs want to create and innovate so that Columbus gets its fair share of national press and attention for more than just the latest triple bacon cheese explosion tested in our drive-throughs. 
     Those of us that toil over hot stoves, ovens and fryers… the hardworking folks that grow beautiful, unadulterated produce and happy, well cared for animals… we all want to take care of you.  We want to please you.  We want to delight you!  The best possible outcome for us is that you really like what we do and come to see us often.  Critical success is very edifying, but we aren’t in it for the reviews.  We’re running businesses that need your support so that we can support our families and pay our bills and help grow Columbus because we are proud to be here! 

     The most important weapon you wield in this mostly polite and quietly declared war is choice.  You’ll decide, in the end, how Columbus food will be looked at in the future.  Will we be continue to be known as a Fast and Junk Food hub of the nation? Will the scrappy band of small businesses win the battle for Columbus’ soul?  It’s up to you.

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